Baselworld 2007 - Bulgari

Photos and text by Su JiaXian (SJX)
© April 2007 by Su JiaXian and PuristSPro.com


2007 Basel and Geneva fair reports sponsored by Master Watchmaker Peter Speake-Marin.



Traditionally known for its jewellery and accessories, Bulgari has expanded its watch collection in recent years and now offers a complete range of watches, from the entry level automatics to high complications.

Bulgari put serious effort into creating respectable complicated watches, a task made easier with its acquisition of Daniel Roth et Gérald Genta Haute Horlogerie SA in 2000. The technical and manufacturing expertise of those two manufactures have made an obvious impact in the quality and depth of the Bulgari complications collection.


The Assioma Perpetual Calendar with Tourbillon and GMT

In 2006 Bulgari presented the first of the Assioma complications, one of which the Perpetual Calendar with Tourbillon and second timezone. Both the 2006 complications were excellent efforts for a newcomer into this segment, but neither was particularly outstanding.

This year Bulgari unveiled the same movement (perpetual calendar, tourbillon and GMT) except with a skeleton dial. Usually I am not a fan of dial changes from year to year, but I like this Assioma complication, a lot. The skeleton dial and the contrasting colours complement the strong case design very well, resulting in a watch that looks contemporary and unique, without being too outlandish. This watch is not just a pretty face, all Bulgari complicated watches are manufactured and assembled at the Daniel Roth and Gérald Genta manufacture in Le Sentier, so movement finish is top notch.


Assioma Chronograph in steel and gold

Bulgari now offers all the Assioma models in steel and gold, including the ladies and gents time only models, while previously there were no two-tone models offered.


Assioma D in white gold with diamonds

The third and last addition to the Assioma range is the addition of the Assioma D, an entirely new model targeted squarely at the ladies. Offered in three shades of gold with several variations of diamond settings, the Assioma D is obviously targeted at the 24 and Tank market.


Bulgari-Bulgari Chronograph in steel

The Bulgari-Bulgari was designed by Gérald Genta and is the company’s signature timepiece. Last year the whole range was redesigned, with the most significant change being the new curved case. This year sees the introduction of the Bulgari-Bulgari Chronograph, offered in steel as well as three colours of gold. This is likely the first of many more complications presented in the new Bulgari-Bulgari case.

When I first saw the Bulgari-Bulgari at Baselworld last year I was impressed by the comfort and fit of the curved case. I also like the design, bezel and all. This is by no means high horology, but at this entry level price point the Bulgari-Bulgari is an attractive proposition.


Bulgari-Bulgari Chronograph in yellow gold

Finally we come to the Scuba Chronograph GMT with flyback, the latest model in the popular Scuba range. Containing a La Joux-Perret (formerly Jaquet) movement, this Scuba chronograph is a handsome watch though there is too much text on it, especially with “Professional Diving” is engraved on the side of the case.


Scuba Chronograph GMT

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