Baselworld 2007 - Jaquet Droz

(N.B.: Jaquet Droz watches are notoriously difficult to photograph, especially under time and lightning constraints. So please be forgiving of the photography in this section.)

Jaquet Droz has added two new entry level models to its range, both offered in steel. The first is the L’Origine, a 43mm watch with center seconds. Like the rest of the collection, the L’Origine offers a hand-bevelled ring on the dial, but instead of serving as a border framing the time display, it works as the hour track. A clever touch are the three blued steel screws securing the hour ring, these give the otherwise simple dial a hint of the technical side of watchmaking. Priced under CHF10,000, the L’Origine will broaden the appeal of Jaquet Droz significantly.

L’Origine

The second entry level model, the Grande Heure Minute médium réhaut, is an extension of the Hommage London 1774 collection. Once again, simplicity is the order of the day, and the matte black dial is unadorned, except for Roman numerals in applied black steel.

Grande Heure Minute Médium Méhaut

No Jaquet Droz presentation will be complete without the trademark Grande Seconde. 2007 sees the Grande Seconde presented in a variety of rich wood dials. Complemented by the rose gold case, these watches have a softer look than the stark white or black enamel dials most often seen. Even though the wood dial versions are identical in size and design to their enamel counterparts, they look and feel as different as day and night.

Jaquet Droz also presented 41mm diameter Les Deux Fuseaux Médium, the company’s first dual timezone watch in steel. Previously this model was only available in precious metals in a larger diameter case.

Les Deux Fuseaux

One of the wholly new movements presented at Baselworld was the retrograde date watch, the La Date Astrale. The retrograde date is indicated by a diamond marker that runs on the date track on the lower left edge of the dial; that is balanced by the time display on the upper right corner. This model exemplifies the simple, concise design with a hint of luxury that Jaquet Droz excels at.

In 2004 Jaquet Droz presented a pièce unique tourbillon with minute repeater, based on a Christophe Claret ebauche. Now the company has finally unveiled a manually wound tourbillon as part of the collection, something that has been rumoured for some time. According to Manuel Emch, the CEO of Jaquet Droz, this tourbillon is “80% in-house”.

The upper portion of the dial is black enamel, while the lower section around the tourbillon escapement is decorated with Geneva stripes. Customers have order customised dial designs; there was a special order tourbillon with a skull motif on display at the Jaquet Droz booth.

A watch that has been eagerly anticipated is the Grande Seconde in a black ceramic case. Last year a prototype ceramic case was shown but only at Baselworld 2007 has this watch been launched officially.

In a departure from the norm, Jaquet Droz has opted for a shiny finish on the ceramic case, and put the watch on a rubber strap. A thoroughly odd combination, but the resulting watch is attractive, and very discreet.

Grande Seconde in black ceramic case

La Fleur de Lotus, limited to 8 pieces in each colour, is another addition to the Jaquet Droz range for the fairer sex. They will be available either with a black or white lacquer dial, accented with a combination of pink or blue sapphires, black diamonds and amethyst.

La Fleur de Lotus in black

And in white

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