SIHH 2007 - Cartier

Cartier introduced a slew of new ladies watches this year, one of which is the Ballerine, a delicate ladies watch available in a variety of precious metals with the option of diamonds - in quartz, of course.

Ballerine in rose gold

Ballerine in white gold with diamonds

The Ballerine is actually a line of Cartier jewellery, and the Ballerine watch is basically line extension in the form of functional jewellery. Similarly, the Love jewellery range is a popular jewellery range characterised by its decorative screws. Watches have been added to the Love collection this year, again available in a range of precious metals, with several options of diamond settings available.

Love watch in rose gold with diamond bezel

Named after María Félix, a Mexican film star who once commissioned a necklace from Cartier in the shape of a crocodile, the shape of the La Doña (Ms Félix’s nickname) watch was inspired by the snout of a crocodile. Originally presented only with matching precious metal bracelets, the La Doña watches are now available with leather straps. Oddly enough, the watches are presented on alligator, instead of crocodile, straps.

These leather strap versions of the watch are a vast improvement over the original La Doña watches which were fitted to chunky, metal bracelets. In fact, I daresay the La Doña watches on straps are one of the nicest ladies’ watches showcased this year.

La Doña in yellow gold with diamond bezel

La Doña in yellow gold

Next is a watch that is part of the Cartier Libre collection, a series of highly artistic watches in an assortment of unconventional shapes and styles. The Ronde Folle features a Dali-esque diamond set grille over the crystal and a dial with wildly oversized Arabic numerals. If anyone else created such a watch it would look tacky and cheap, but Cartier manages to pull it off.

Ronde Folle - White gold with diamonds; quartz movement

More diamonds can be found on the latest version of the highly successful Santos 100, basically the original Santos on steroids. This model is in white gold with a diamond pavé case and bezel, and a mother-of-pearl dial. It is a very large watch, but because of the design and colour, it still looks good on a ladies’ wrist. Again, Cartier manages to pull it off.

Santos 100 special edition

This year Cartier also unveiled a limited edition trio of some of its most successful products, the Santos 100, the Santos-Dumont and the Roadster chronograph. All three feature the same colour scheme of a rose gold case and chocolate brown dial - an increasingly popular combination in men’s watches. I like the two Santos models, the case shape lends itself well to this colour.

Santos 100 - Limited edition of 300 pieces

Santos-Dumont - Limited edition of 400 pieces

Roadster Chronograph - Limited edition of 300 pieces

Named for the blue cabouchon set in the crown, the newly launched Ballon Bleu is going to be a hit with retailers and consumers for four simple reasons. First, it’s round. Second, it has a date function. Third, it’s Cartier. And finally, is priced similarly to the average Rolex.

Cartier aims for the Ballon Bleu to become the next iconic Cartier shape, alongside the Tank, Santos et al. And in the process I’m sure Cartier hopes to snatch a few customers away from Rolex.

It will be available in three sizes, in either yellow, rose or white gold, or steel and gold. Despite that fact that contains nothing interesting mechanically and it is a purely commercial product created to sell in volume, I like the case and dial, even the pointless bridge over the crown looks good. If Cartier introduces a version on a strap, and I am sure it will do so eventually, the Ballon Bleu will be an attractive watch.

Ballon Bleu in yellow gold with diamond set bezel

Now we move on to the high-end Collection Privée Cartier Paris (CPCP). Two new watches from this range were presented this year, the first being the Tank Louis Cartier XL 2 Timezone. It contains the manually wound, cal. 9901 MC, developed by Cartier for the CPCP range. Previously this movement was only found in the Tank à Vis model, a beefed-up version of the Tank watch. This year’s Tank Louis Cartier model is slimmer and more elegant, though it does not look like it can withstand rough-and-tumble travel. But like all watches in the CPCP range, it is a beautifully crafted timepiece with a timeless design.

Tank Louis Cartier XL 2 Timezone in pink gold

The other high horology watch presented this year is the most complicated wristwatch Cartier has made in modern times. Named the Rotonde de Cartier à grande complication, it contains a tourbillon, perpetual calendar, monopusher chronograph and a 7-day power reserve. Renaud et Papi designed and manufactured this grande complication for Cartier and only 10 will be made. A similar movement was used by AP in its tourbillon with chronograph, but this particular configuration is exclusive to Cartier.

Rotonde de Cartier à grande complication in platinum

Like most other supercomplications, the Rotonde de Cartier à grande complication is a technical marvel. Furthermore, it has sterling pedigree - Cartier on the dial and a Renaud et Papi movement. But it is a massive watch, both wide and thick. Cartier does it best at creating simple complications in relatively slim cases, like the preceding dual time Tank or the Tortue Monopoussoir chronograph.

On another note, it’s a sign of how far Renaud et Papi (R&P) have come that even the largest of companies openly admit movements are created by R&P, almost like it’s a badge of honour.

Movement of the grande complication