SIHH 2007 - Girard-Perregaux

We start off with several new models in the ww.tc (world wide time control) collection. Several worldtime or dual timezone watches for ladies were introduced at the fairs this year, but this new Lady ww.tc from GP is one of the best of the lot; it looks feminine yet functional. The watch is 41mm in diameter, but does not look large and still wears very well on a small wrist.

Lady ww.tc in rose gold

Lady ww.tc in steel

Last year GP introduced a limited edition ww.tc chronograph in steel with a ruthenium dial. This year a similar limited edition for the GP Club in the form of the ww.tc Power Reserve was unveiled. It’s a striking watch but under certain lightning conditions it is not easy to read due to the low colour contrast. Only 50 pieces will be made.

GP Club ww.tc

The next watch is aimed at Masters of the Universe, the ww.tc - Financial shows when the major stock markets are open. New York, London, Tokyo and Hong Kong are highlighted on the worldtime bezel.

ww.tc - Financial in rose gold

Next we move on to the BMW Oracle Racing range, dedicated to the BMW Oracle Racing syndicate which is competing for the 2007 America’s Cup; GP is one of the sponsors of the team. 10 new models for the BMW Oracle Racing series were introduced at SIHH, here is a selection of the most interesting ones.

USA 98 chronograph in rose gold - Limited edition of 150 pieces each in white or black dials

USA 98 chronograph in steel - Limited edition of 250 pieces each in white or black dials

USA 98 chronograph in DLC (diamond-like carbon) titanium - Limited edition of 150 units

The flagship of the BMW Oracle Racing collection is the Laureato Regatta, a tourbillon with chronograph and regatta countdown function.

The chronograph is a single button type, operated by the pusher at 3 o’clock. 32 pieces will be made, all cased in white gold.

GP has made two other “sports” tourbillons, the Sea Hawk Pro tourbillons in titanium or rose gold which were launched last year. Both were striking watches, the carbon fibre dial, oversized case and large tourbillon were an inspired combination; despite the fact that a manually wound tourbillon waterproof to 1000 or 3000m makes no sense at all. Unfortunately, I find the Laureato Regatta an unremarkable watch.

Movement of Laureato Regatta

Now for a watch I am very positive about, the 1966 Full Calendar. It was inspired by a watch depicted by Ian Fleming in From Russia with Love - a true James Bond watch. Initially I thought the watch might have looked better with a subsidiary seconds hand at 6 o’clock, but the centre seconds has grown on me, and the central seconds is how Mr Fleming described the watch anyway. This watch is only available in pink gold.

1966 Full Calendar in pink gold

Aside from the 1966, GP has another retro-inspired range, the Vintage 1945. Originally available in a rectangular case, the Vintage 1945 was first presented in a square case with the launched of the Triple Calendar in 2006. This year the Vintage 1945 Carrée (square) range now also includes an automatic and a chronograph.

Vintage 1945 Carrée chronograph in steel

The Vintage 1945 Carrée uses the new cal. GP4500, developed and manufactured by GP. It’s a big movement at 30mm in diameter, ideal for larger watches.

Vintage 1945 Carrée in steel

Vintage 1945 Carrée in rose gold

Three new dials have been added to the Vintage 1945 range for ladies. All three are cased in steel and each is limited to 50 pieces. The designs are fun and contemporary, but not especially creative or striking. That being said, they are ideal as a casual but quality watch for the lady.

I Love GP

Jackpot

The TV screen design is quite ironic, given that JeanRichard, GP’s sister company, has a watch called the TV screen.

TV Screen

The somewhat dated Richeville collection has been revived with the new Jour et Nuit model. A 24-hour ring on the dial rotates once a day, and the time is read from the arrow fixed at 12 o’clock; the dark portion of the ring indicates night time while the silver section indicates day time, thus the name Jour et Nuit (day and night). Minutes are read conventionally via the central minute hand.

This watch offers a clean, modern design with a twist in the time display, and it’s a great new direction for the Richeville range, which up till now has looked quite conservative.

Jour et Nuit in rose gold

Jour et Nuit in steel

Although GP no longer makes watches with the Ferrari label, the company still creates watches dedicated to automobile racing, as Luigi Macaluso, owner of GP, was a rally car driver in his youth. The following two watches are each dedicated to a memorable Monte-Carlo Rally, one of 1954 and the other of 1970.

Monte-Carlo 1954 - Limited to 250 pieces in steel and 50 in rose gold

Monte-Carlo 1970 - Limited to 250 in steel

We conclude with the amazing Vintage 1945 Jackpot Tourbillon, a miniature jackpot for the wrist. A lever on the side of the case activates the jackpot inside the watch; 5 symbols on the jackpot wheels mean a total of 125 combinations are possible, but only three bells in row signify a jackpot.

When the wearer strikes the jackpot, a hammer strikes a gong as each jackpot wheel comes to a stop, just like in a real jackpot machine. The hammer and gong are similar to that found in a minute repeater, and the sound quality of the chime is excellent. It was hardly necessary, but GP has also included a tourbillon escapement in this watch.

Vintage 1945 Jackpot Tourbillon

Back of the Jackpot Tourbilon

The Jackpot Tourbillon is a brilliant concept, and GP has executed it perfectly. The feel of the jackpot lever, the sound of the spinning jackpot wheels, the chimes when the jackpot is struck - all of it is extraordinary. Unfortunately, the watch is immense, measuring 43 x 43.95mm, and it rivals the Franck Muller Aeternitas Mega 4 as one of the largest wristwatches I’ve ever seen. Yet it’s so incredible - activating the jackpot lever is an experience in itself - it’s worth every penny of its eye-popping price.

Another view of the Vintage 1945 Jackpot Tourbillon