SIHH 2007 - IWC

The most talked about IWC this year is the new Da Vinci line. It looks nothing like the round Da Vinci it replaces, instead it is a return to the original quartz Da Vinci of the seventies. When I first saw photos of the new Da Vinci I was not blown away. After seeing it in the metal, I have changed my mind about the Da Vinci chronograph. It does look good in its own way, and the clean dial layout is terrific. The dial is a result of the new cal. 89360 which makes it premier in the Da Vinci chronograph.

Because of the polarising design of the new Da Vinci, many have overlooked the new movement. Not only does it use the famous IWC Pellaton winding system, it also features a traditional column wheel control for the chronograph. Best of all is the smart decision to group the hour and minute counters on the same subdial, thus making the dial symmetrical and much less cluttered. I assumed the two counters on the same subdial would be difficult to read, but they are legible and in fact, easier to focus on as compared to two separate subdials.

In terms of case construction and finish, the new Da Vinci easily trumps the outgoing model. IWC did an excellent job with the case finish on the new Da Vinci, not an easy task given the complex lines of the tortue case.

Da Vinci Chronograph in platinum - Limited to 500 pieces

Da Vinci Chronograph in rose gold

Da Vinci Chronograph in steel

The Da Vinci Kurt Klaus Limited Edition marks the 50th anniversary of employment of Kurt Klaus, the watchmaking genius of IWC and the man responsible for the original Da Vinci perpetual calendar with chronograph.

While I have changed my mind about the Da Vinci chronograph, I have not warmed up to the Kurt Klaus watch; the dial is much too busy with all the subdials and the guilloche. The movement in the Kurt Klaus is unchanged from the outgoing Da Vinci perpetual calendar.

Kurt Klaus in platinum - Limited to 50 examples

Kurt Klaus in rose gold - Limited to 500 examples

The Da Vinci is also available as a time-only automatic, available in white or rose gold, or steel.

Da Vinci Automatic in steel

This watch was the subject of much speculation before it was finally unveiled - the Big Ingenieur with the 7-day cal. 51112 found in the Portuguese 7-days and Big Pilot. It is 45.5mm in diameter and features a display back.

Big Ingenieur

Although the Big Ingenieur is now the flagship of the Ingenieur range, my favourite version is this one with the ceramic bezel. Technically it offers nothing new, but the black, silver and red colours are outstanding; this is possibly the best looking Ingenieur ever in my book. Its attractiveness is further boosted by its manageable size and the affordable price.

Like the Big Ingenieur, this watch offers a display back. Some Purists lament the loss of the antimagnetic soft-iron inner case that has been a hallmark of the Ingenieur (engineer) line since its inception, but for me that doesn’t matter - this Ingenieur is a winner.

The final addition to the Ingenieur range is the 40mm midsize version. One of the main drawbacks of the 44mm ref. 3227 Ingenieur was its height and size. This 40mm version is perfect for those who like the look but prefer a more wearable watch. Like the previous two Ingenieur watches, this 40mm automatic features a display back and no antimagnetic shielding.

Ingenieur Automatic 40mm

Last year IWC launched a limited edition chronograph dedicated to the French aviator and novelist, Antoine de Saint Exupéry. This year sees the introduction of an automatic in the same style as last year’s chronograph, also dedicated to the French flier. It will be a limited edition of 1178 in steel, 500 in rose gold, 250 in white gold, 1 in platinum which will not be for sale.

Pilot’s Watch Automatic Edition Antoine de Saint Exupéry in rose gold

Caseback of the Saint Exupéry depicting the locations Saint Exupéry flew to

The current incarnation of the Fliegerchronograph is the best so far, the proportions and dial are just right. It is now available in a rose gold case; not very military but it still looks stunning. Quite appropriate for the owner of a Gulfstream or Learjet.

Fliegerchronograph in rose gold

Fans of the ceramic Doppelchronograph of 2006 who were unable to get a piece of the hot limited edition now have an alternative. Created in conjunction with the United States Navy Fighter Weapons School, the Top Gun Doppelchronograph is cased in ceramic and is nearly identical to the ceramic Doppelchronograph of 2006, except the case is 46mm wide instead of 44mm. Despite the size difference the two watches are remarkably similar, though I’m sure the Top Gun will cause unhappiness amongst those who fought tooth and nail for one of the limited edition version.

Top Gun Doppelchronograph

I am not a fan of the Top Gun logos on the back and side of the case - they look tacky and out of place.

Top Gun caseback

Top Gun case side

IWC and its parent, Richemont, are founding patrons of The Laureus Sport for Good Foundation, which aims to tackle social problems via the promotion and celebration of sports. Last year IWC launched a Portuguese chronograph dedicated to the foundation, which raised over EUR400,000 for the organistion.

This year the Laureus foundation watch is a Spitfire Fliegerchronograph. On the caseback is an engraved reproduction of a painting drawn by an 8-year old girl from Uruguay, which won a competition organised by the Laureus organisation. 2500 examples of this watch will be made.

My photo does not do this watch justice, the dial is a beautiful, deep blue, the same blue that is the official colour of the Laureus organisation.

Fliegerchronograph Laureus

Engraving on the caseback of the Laureus

Next comes yet another limited edition, presented in another shade of blue. The Aquatimer Cousteau Divers is the latest in a series of limited editions created in cooperation with the Cousteau Society. This year’s edition is limited to 2500 pieces.

Aquatimer Chronograph Cousteau Divers

The Portuguese Regulateur was launched last year, now it is offered with the ardoise colour dial found on several other white gold IWC models.

Portuguese Regulateur in white gold with ardoise dial

Finally we move to the Portofino collection which has undergone a face-lift; now all the watches sport a simple and modern design. This range has always been overshadowed by the other more high profile watches like the Flieger and Portuguese. But the clean new look combined with its entry level price will definitely raise its appeal. The Portofino offers an excellent opportunity to get IWC quality without having to sell an organ.

Three models are now available, a chronograph, an automatic and a midsized automatic. Certain combinations, like the white gold case with ardoise dial, will only be available at IWC boutiques.

Portofino Chronograph in white gold with ardoise

Portofino Chronograph in steel

Portofino Automatic

Notwithstanding its name, the Portofino Midsize is actually a ladies’ watch, the diameter is a small 34mm. It is available with a charming radial guilloche dial and matching satin straps. Surprisingly, these two are some of the best looking ladies’ watches of the 2007 fairs - they are practical and beautiful to look at. Both are exclusive to IWC boutiques.

Portofino Midsize in white gold with ardoise dial

Portofino Midsize in rose gold with silver dial