WPHH 2007 - Pierre Kunz

Photos and text by Su JiaXian (SJX)
© April 2007 by Su JiaXian and PuristSPro.com


2007 Basel and Geneva fair reports sponsored by Master Watchmaker Peter Speake-Marin.



Pierre Kunz is another brand of the growing Franck Muller Watchland Group. Known for its retrograde watches, Pierre Kunz watches usually feature at least one function indicated by a retrograde or jumping indicator.

We being with a double retrograde with moonphase and a partially skeletonised dial. The hours and minutes are indicated by retrograde hands, while the moonphase at 6 o’clock is surrounded by mother-of-pearl decorated with stars. This model is available in a large variety of colours and materials.

I was surprised by how versatile the design is, the look varied from sporty to formal depending on the case metal and dial colour. The photos show the two extremes, the first one with orange accents is a very modern, energetic watch, while the second one in pink gold is much more subdued.


Double retrograde in steel


And in rose gold

Next we see another watch with a retrograde indicator. It’s a dual timezone watch with big date with the second time displayed on a retrograde hour hand. This would be a fine looking watch, if not for the utterly comical looking display at 10 o’clock which is the night and day indicator for the second timezone.


Dual timezone with big date in rose gold


Dual timezone with big date in rose gold with silver dial

Again we see more retrograde displays with the next watch, the G 403 Chronograph Sport where the hour and minute counters are retrograde. An interesting feature on this watch is the AM/PM indication, cleverly achieved by a rotating disc under the dial with hour numerals on it, visible through windows on the dial.

AM/PM is indicated by the colour of the hour numerals (white for AM and black for PM), and they change when the disc jumps at the appropriate the time of day. Thus after sunset, all the numerals from 6 to 11 are black while those from 12 to 5 are white (as shown in the photo) and vice-versa after sunrise. This watch offers distinctive complications and design, and is a great alternative to some of the “fusion” sports chronographs that are popular now.


G 403 Chronograph Sport in rose gold with “texalium printed” rubber strap

Last comes a watch with no retrograde functions at all, it’s a simple time-only watch with a tourbillon. The movement is a Franck Muller flying tourbillon calibre (maybe Renaud et Papi?), but the visual effect is interesting as the square tourbillon cage rotates in a square aperture.


Tourbillon in rose gold


Movement of the tourbillon

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