| Products of the 'haute horlogérie' normally receive names that reflect their luxury, uniqueness and tradition. That Ulysse Nardin dubbed a very expensive watch "Freak", certainly was met with some astonishment. However, as soon, as we held that product in our hands, we realized that this name was well deserved. A watch that features no hands showing the time, but where the movement itself serves that purpose; a manual-winding watch, which features no crown to wind it or to set the hands; all the conventions that have been accepted as being the traditional base of mechanical watches, seemingly have been ignored.
And whoever thought that a watch like the "Freak" can be produced in a conventional manner, will learn the contrary now:
The complete production time of a "Freak" is six weeks, but of this, the actual assembly needs but two days. In order to understand this, one has to know the really freaky way of how a "Freak" is made: The watch case is like a 'sandwich', that consists of several parts, rotating within each other. Between them, gaskets and Teflon-coated gliding surfaces are responsible for water tightness and perfect function. Additionally, the case includes the internal teethed thread necessary for the movement of the 'minute bridge'. The case assembly is done by some members of the team, and water tightness and the correct dimensions are tested without the movement mounted inside the case. Separately assembled is also the mainspring barrel, which is fixed on the caseback, with its hour wheel and the 'bridge', which by its rotation shows the hours. It is held by the teethed rack on the case's inside. As a next step, this sub-assembly is mount into the case, and all the measurements and its proper working is tested, without the rest of the movement added. The "Freak's" movement itself is the small "baguette" with its wheels and the arrowhead, showing the minutes. It consists of a baseplate, the wheels and their bridge, the escapement with another small bridge atop, and the balance wheel with its large cock. The different members of UN's "Freak team" each assemble their proper movements, and mount them into their proper watches.
But before, the movements are tested and adjusted. Yes, you are reading correctly: The Freak movements are adjusted outside their cases, since once the cases are closed, no further adjustment is possible without complete disassembly of the case. Each movement is put on a specific stand and fed with energy by a small motor drive. There, they are tested for accuracy and amplitude. A laser is used for this purpose, since the traditional methods, mostly with sensible microphones, are not applicable with the Freak. Thus, the Freak movements pass a "curing time" on their stands, until they finally are mounted into their cases.
A "Freak" movement in its assembly stand
Amplitude testing with a laser Afterwards, the case is closed. Then follows the final testing, ensuring that the movement's regulation outside the case is still okay, once the movement is encased. This happens over two periods of eight days each. During the first eight days, the watch is tested in different static positions, and during the latter, it is moved on a watch winder. The reason for this strict testing is, of course, the fact that once the case is closed, no adjustment is possible. As a consequence, all is done to keep the risk of maladjusted movements as small as possible. Those of you happy to call a "Freak" their own now know that "freaky" is not only appropriate as a description of their watch's appearance, but also of its peculiar manufacturing process. I want to sincerely thank Ulysse Nardin's technical director, Mr. Pierre Gygax, for supplying my with all the valuable insights! |
