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Engine Testbed à la Ulysse Nardin: presented by Marcus Hanke © text: M. Hanke, pics: Ulysse Nardin, 2005 |
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Does it make sense to involve latest high technology in the production of apparently outdated machineries, like mechanical watches? At last, in the era of ultra-accurate, radio-controlled wristwatches, why should it be rational to invest huge sums into innovations of a mechanism that has been made more or less perfect more than a hundred years ago? In fact, it does make sense, especially when taking into account these one hundred years: Back then, the cost of human labour was minuscule, even that of trained watchmakers. Thus, service and repair costs were not a major issue. Today, things have changed, as every watch enthusiast, studying the invoice of the latest complication service will readily agree. Therefore, it is not astonishing that watch companies have put the reduction of service need onto their list of highest priorities. When Ulysse Nardin, famous for its innovativeness, presented the "Freak", this watch became famous for the fact that a - given the small number of parts - simple movement can be the watch itself. However, much of this watch's fame also derived from the use of wheels that were made from a material hitherto unheard in the world of mechanical watches. silicone. The new "Dual Direct Escapement" of the Freak did not need any lubrication. Partially responsible for this big step towards a service-free mechanical watch were the two escapement wheels etched from silicone. If you want to re-read about this technology and escapement, please use the following links:
The silicone had the advantage of being very light, but sturdy. With its low mass, the wheels would more easily overcome the inertia reducing the escapement's effectiveness. Additionally, the material's hardness greatly reduced the wear. If we look at the rationale behind the "Freak", we do not only see a stunningly designed watch, and a milestone in horological history. We also see a perfect test-bed for new material technologies, an invaluable asset of the reasearch for a truly service-free and accurate escapement. It is an open secret that the silicone wheels caused some magnetism problems in the beginning, but these were overcome eventually. However, cost of production of the wheels is still very high, and the fact that the watch is still not entirely service-free, leaves room for further research.
This is the background we have to keep in mind when we look now at the next step in Ulysse Nardin's material technology game: the test-bed received another, different material now, which has to proof itself in a series production. Ulysse Nardin presents the "Freak 28,800". Why not "Freak 2"? Because it is not simple an "improved" model, making its predecessor obsolete. it is different enough to justify this new designation. It already makes clear that the watch has a higher balance frequency, which shall enhance the watch's accuracy. Given the fact that it is impossible to simply open a Freak to adjust it, a lot of care has to be taken to adjust the Freak movement before it is encased. The higher the beat frequency, the higher the possible accuracy that can be reached; this is the theory. If it holds in practice, will be shown by the future experience.
To increase the balance frequency, a lot more changes had to be implemented, than one would imagine: The escapement wheels of the former Dual Direct Escapement each have five "activation teeth", allowing only a lower frequency than the 18 activation teeth each of the two escapement wheels have now. What does not sound spectacular, in fact resulted in a completely different escapement. Originally dubbed "Dual Indirect Escapement", is now launched as "Dual Ulysse Escapement". Here is a small animation, giving you a first impression on the new escapement. A more detailed technical review will follow later.
Besides the new way of power transfer to the oscillator, and the higher beat frequency, a lot of other things have been changed. First of all, the escapement wheels are now not made from silicone, but from a new nickel alloy, which is not stamped or spark eroded, but created by galvanical deposition, offering a much higher degree of precision. And second, there is a completely new balance ring, which can now be adjusted directly, by means of four integrated inertia adjustment screws. The way the ring was designed avoids micro-turbulences caused by the screws, as they are common with other screw balances. Since the length of the balance spring is fixed, the balance frequency is influenced by adjusting the inertia screws.
Additionally, the mainspring barrel, consuming the whole case diameter underneath the movement, is now stabilized by a ball-bearing, containing 196 micro-balls.
Funnily, the technically least important "innovation" is the only one that can be seen at a glance: The massive bezel, which serves as time-setting device, is now locked by a small lever, preventing from accidental displacement. It bears the imprint "28,800 V/h" to show the higher balance frequency.
"Diamond Heart" Until a short time ago, it seemed impossible to produce even a small series of the exciting diamond wheels that have been shown by Ulysse Nardin already more than a year ago. Too high was the cost, and too difficult the production. However, a new production method now made it possible for UN to offer a very special "Freak 28,800": the "Diamond Heart", limited to 99 pieces. The first parts that were good enough to be used in movement for permanent use, did not come before January this year, so this is really a hot novelty!
However, the balance spring of both versions is still made from conventional material, Nivarox. A series production of diamond balance springs is not possible at this time, but as things keep changing at a fast pace, who knows what will be next year?
Freak 28’800 V/h – Technical specifications:
Ref. 020-88 18 ct white gold Ref. 026-88 18 ct rose gold Movement: Caliber UN-200, 13 ¾’’’ 28 jewels Power-Reserve: approximately 7 days Manual winding mechanism over the back case Functions: Carrousel Tourbillon Display of the hours and minutes Patented Dual Ulysse Escapement 28’800 V/h (4 Hz) Turning bezel with lock device to set the time Case: 18 ct gold Diameter of case: 44.5 mm Crystal: Anti reflective sapphire crystal Case-back: Anti reflective sapphire crystal Alligator leather strap, with 18 ct gold folding buckle
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ll Copyright March 2005 - Marcus Hanke ThePuristS.com - all rights reserved |
