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Ulysse Nardin novelties
Basel watch fair 2003 © text and pics: M. Hanke, 2003 Besides the really exciting novelty, presented by Ulysse Nardin this year, the magnificent "Sonata" alarm watch (click here to access the article), there were some other interesting new watches, that I could inspect in the UN booth. Stunning is the new and limited Trilogy of Time set in paltinum, which I have presented to you earlier already (click here to access the article). The other changes in the UN watch line will be less spectacular, but nontheless interesting for those that contemplate the purchase of some very popular models: Both, the Marine Chronometer and the Marine Diver, have gained size. Following the general tendency towards larger watches, UN increased the diameter of the Marine Chronometer to 40 mm, that of the Diver even to 42.7 mm. Even after some time musing about it, I am not sure if I really like that new sizes. Personally, I can wear large watches, as my wrist is very wide. But I am not sure if the classic design of the Marine series watches really becomes better by widening the case. The 40 mm Marine Chronometer looks good on my wirst, though. Additionally, there are new dials available. The black dial with the silver numerals is extremely attractive, although - due to the polished steel hands - not as legible as the brighter dials.
In particular, however, I liked the off-white dial with the silver power reserve and second subdials. This one is really stunning!
There are another changes on the new Marine Chronometers: The loupe for the date window is now cut directly into the sapphire crystal's rear side, which further improves its legibility. And there is a new design of the thick alligator straps, with very specific lugs on the watch itself. While this solution is without doubt very attractive, it also makes it impossible to use standard third party straps.
Already the original Marine Diver version was a very substantial watch. The new one with the large case has now become really hefty. It barely fits under an average shirtsleeve.
I like it, but I am not sure if I would prefer the larger case over the smaller 40mm case. Those of you that have similar concerns will be glad to hear that the smaller case sizes of both, the Chronometer and the Diver, will stay in production - preliminarily, at least. The actual demand on the market will show which of the two versions will be accepted more. Another new feature of the new cases are the crownguards. At least on the Diver they enhance the stability and resistance of the crown against side impacts. The revolving bezel, too, has been improved. Until now, I considered the Marine Diver's bezel second only to barely some other bezels in the market, in terms of smoothness, and the haptic feel of the "click". On the new, large Diver, the bezel has become even smoother to turn, and I can imagine their owners frantically turning it all the time!
Without any reservation on my side I present the new dials for the GMT Perpetual. The non-limited, smaller version (38.5 mm case diameter) receives some extremely nice outfits: There is a stunningly blue galvanized dial, that will especially appeal to those of you that thought the blue-faced Acqua Perpetual would be a bit too sportive for them. Now you can have a bright blue perpetual in the more elegant case.
Additionally, there are now variants with applied Roman numerals, instead of the straight hourmarkers. their background is either silver, or a new colour, simply called "grey". Yet this resembles more a metallic smoke colour - I like that one best.
The tonneau-shaped Michelangelo line also receives a freshup: New dials with the very same oversized Roman numerals, that have been seen on the "Ludovico" perpetual, now are available for the Michelangelo Big Date and GMT versions, as is the new smokey grey dial colour. This makes the beautiful tonneau series even more attractive!
Finally, the Lady series has been reworked, and their dials got a new styling. The Roman numerals lost their sober seriousness, receiving some sympathetic curves. Small diamonds fill them out, together with mother-of-pearl dial materials, I am sure that these watches will be liked by the ladies!
Please excuse the poor quality of the pictures, but unfortunately, these booths all have a rather poor lighting. Once the watches are available at the dealers, you should be better able to evaluate their looks, and I am sure you will like what you see. |
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Copyright April 2003 - Marcus Hanke ThePuristS.com - all rights reserved |