presented by Marcus Hanke

© text: M. Hanke, © pics: Ulysse Nardin, 2005

Many of you might well remember this:

The Seventies were a decade of strong, even bold design, based on large and simple geometric shapes, combined with vivid colours. Currently, this design era seems to be rediscovered and develops a certain renaissance. Especially watch manufacturers are quick to present new models in the Seventies style; sometimes, they are complete re-releases of former timepieces, sometimes the new watches only show traces of 70s inspiration, featuring certain typical design elements.

Maybe it is no coincidence, that Ulysse Nardin now present its well-known and famous perpetual calendar movement in a new coat, which, while far from the bright and clumsy charm of ‘real’ 70s timepieces, nevertheless brings back memories in those having lived through that decade. Maybe it is the square subdial of the small second, or maybe it is the conspicuous 24 hours chapter of the integrated GMT mechanism, maybe it is the watch’s sheer size, that immediately sparks associations with the Seventies; probably it is the combination of all these elements. However, it is also clear that the new “Quadrato” raises itself far above the basic outlines of its predecessors thirty years ago, introducing many complexities and interesting facets into its design. But we should not start with details.

It is certainly not difficult to understand why Ulysse Nardin has chosen the name “Quadrato” for its new watch: The massive case is square, sized 42 by 42 millimetres, with a height of 13.7 mm. Today, with watch diameters of nearly 50 millimetres being far from uncommon, 42 mm does not sound spectacular. However, one should not forget that a square with 42mm length of its edges has a diagonal length of not less than 59.4 mm! Now add some strong lugs, and you have a really big watch! In spite of that, the wearing comfort is astonishingly good, for which the wide alligator strap with its specifically shaped lug ends (with integrated ‘hardpoints’ for a perfect fit to the case) might also be responsible. The choices of case materials are 18k pink or white gold. From the sides protrude the two pushers, responsible for setting the main hour hand in full hour jumps, forward as well as backward; a well-known UN patent, developed by Ludwig Oechslin. Meanwhile, the arrow-headed 24 hours-hand keeps track of the hometime, which can be read on its own track, that is raised from the dial surface, and not really square, but has slightly curved outlines.

However, the easy to use GMT mechanism is not the main attraction of the “Quadrato”, more an additional bonus: Being equipped with the cal. UN-32 movement, it features the only mechanical perpetual calendar that can be adjusted forward and backward, only by means of the crown.The beautifully finished movement, bearing an enamelled anchor logo on its rotor, can be admired through a sapphire display back.

The dial is worth to be studied up close: Its surface shows a fine hobnail structure, with flawless cut-outs for the date indications. As already mentioned, the 24 hours chapter ring is raised, and the applied hour markers seem to have luminous mass on them, at least in the black faced variants, while the silver/white faced variants have pink or white gold markers.

To be specially mentioned are the hands: Most notably the recent Ulysse Nardin releases distinguish themselves by their uniquely designed hands, which cannot be found elsewhere on the market: Marine Chronometer, Diver, Sonata, or even the absence of conventional hands at all, as featured by the Freak, indicate the time in both, an artistic and practical manner. Many, if not most complicated watches have the problem of how to display the complication and the time, without both compromising each other. Either the hour and minute hands are slim and elegant, so they would not hide the secondary indications on the subdials or windows. This, however, prevents them from being clearly visible in bad lighting conditions, and, lacking luminous elements, remain completely invisible in the dark. Or the larger, luminous hands would cover the subdials during a substantial part of the day.

Based on an idea of Rolf Schnyder, Sonata and now the Quadrato succeed in combining the advantages of both systems, while avoiding their disadvantages: Over the length that passes over the calendar windows, the hands are skeletonised, so their displays are not obstructed. The hands’ tips, however, are lavishly equipped with Super Luminova, which guarantees premium legibility over the night.

Maybe the Quadrato is not appealing to everybody’s taste; it is not intended to be, though. Those who are looking for a perpetual in a smooth, elegant and timeless design, can be fully satisfied with the UN GMT Perpetual in its round case, or the tonneau-shaped Ludovico. The Quadrato is made for friends of bold and big timepieces, that do not hide under the cuffs, but proudly present themselves on the wrists. And I have no doubts that these people will be very happy.

Technical data

• Movement: Caliber UN-32, 68 jewels
  
• Power-Reserve: approx. 45 h
  
• Winding: Self-winding
  
• Functions: Perpetual Calendar adjustable over single crown. 2nd Time zone on main dial with a patented quick setting mechanism. Permanent home time indicated by 3rd hand. Big date in double window.
  
• Case: available in 18 ct rose or white gold
  
• Dimensions: 42 x 42 mm, height 13.7 mm
  
• Water-resistance: 50 m
  
• Crystal: Anti reflective sapphire crystal
  
• Case-back: Fixed with screws, anti reflective sapphire crystal
  
• Crown: screwed, enamel anchor logo
  
• Strap: Alligator leather strap with folding buckle