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Previously in the ‘Lazing Luxuriously in Chester’ article, I made reference to a Guide Michelin one-star restaurant called ‘Arkle’ located in The Chester Grosvenor hotel. I am pleased to present a review of the restaurant and adjacent bar – ‘The Library’.
The ‘Arkle’ is named after the famous steeplechaser (racehorse) owned by Anne, Duchess of Westminster. The horse was named after a mountain on the Grosvenor family Estate in Scotland. Arkle won twenty-seven of his thirty-five races and never fell on the racecourse. Over fences, he was only beaten three times. Arkle was so much faster than the other runners that by the time of the Irish Grand National in 1964, he had changed the rules of handicapping. The handicapper had to prepare one set of weights if Arkle ran and another if he did not! On the day after Boxing Day 1966, Arkle was beaten (gasp) into second place at Kempton in the King George VI Chase. Subsequently, a veterinary examination discovered a broken pedal bone. “Arkle-Ireland” was the address used by many of the thousands who sent ‘get well’ cards. Sadly, he never raced again and was retired to County Kildare where he passed away in 1970.
Today, the rich gold and black racing colours of the Duchess of Westminster has been incorporated into the décor and theme of the restaurant, particularly in the rug, which was woven in China.
The Executive Chef is Simon Radley who is an ‘old boy’ of The Chester Grosvenor, returning in June 1998, after an absence of four years.
Simon started at The Chester Grosvenor in 1986, when he joined the hotel on a career path that took him from Chef de Partie to Head Chef by the time he moved on seven years later. In 1987, when the hotel was closed for extensive refurbishment, Simon took a 12-month secondment to broaden his experience, working under Chef Paul Gayler at ‘Inigo Jones’ in London. In 1991 his skills were further enhanced when, acting as The Chester Grosvenor's ambassador, he spent time at the legendary ‘Peninsula Hotel’ in Hong Kong and ‘The Oriental’ in Bangkok, consistently rated by the international business community as one of the best hotels in the world. Simon in 1994 and went first to another Small Luxury Hotel of the World – ‘New Hall’, near Birmingham - as Executive Chef and then the same role at ‘Nunsmere Hall’ at Oakmere, Cheshire.
Since his return, ‘Arkle’ restaurant has garnered plaudits and retained their Michelin star for the 14th consecutive year. Throughout the year, there are gustatory events which either have wines to match the food as the theme or vice versa. With the rich history of the Grosvenor family, ‘Arkle’ boasts of one of the most extensive cellars in England with over 600 bins.
It was no hardship to do my anonymous review for you, dear Reader.
‘Arkle’ Restaurant and ‘The Library’.
THE ARKLE
I always start with the wine so the sommelier has at least a chance of presenting them well. These things should not be hurried. I left the choice of white wine to a most capable gentleman. Surprisingly, his selection was only half my set price limit.
Dream Bay 2002, Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, New Zealand.
Note the high alcohol content (13%). This was an intense (dried apricots) fruit flavoured but zesty acid wine with deep aroma with a touch of biscuit softness from being lightly oaked. Perfect with the early courses of our dinner.
Chateau Baron de Pichon-Longueville 1982, Appellation Pauillac Controlée, Bordeaux, France.
I chose the red wine myself.
The 2nd Cru, 82-acre vineyard, producing 20,000 cases annually, is just opposite Pichon-Longueville Comtesse de Lalande and Latour, on the road leading from Saint Julien to Pauillac. The average age of vines is 25 years and grape varieties are 75% Cabernet Sauvignon , 24% Merlot and 1% Petit Verdot .
Supple and full of ripe cassis and blackcurrant fruit, the tannins tamed by 21 years waiting for me to happen along. The nose was complex; evocative of leather, tobacco and mature fruit. Some tannin still felt on the palate but soft, elegant and extremely tasty. Possibly from the best year of the century. Superb with the later courses of our dinner.
Choice of bread.
Green herbs and banana breads.
I may have filled up too early on banana bread.
Amuse bouche – prawns and noodles in lobster reduction.
Compliments of the chef and a portent of our menu degustation, which followed.
Ravioli of foie gras with beetroot sweet and sour.
The warm frothy sauce modestly covered the fresh pasta parcel of creamy foie gras. The fruity white wine went nicely with this.
Pavé of sea bass with crab tapioca and langoustine tails.
Just cooked, soft flakes of snow white bass contrasted with the robust texture of langoustine. The crab flavoured tapioca-laced sauce was an unusual but tasty complement to the varied textures.
Saddle of red deer with chanterelles, bacon gnocchi and juniper sabayon.
An excellent foil for our red wine, allowing the tannins and flavours to work their magic. Venison can be a little dry, being such a lean meat but the technique here was executed well using the sabayon and bacon to provide some fat.
British and Continental Cheeses.
My hypothesis is "One cheese trolley for one Michelin star."
Oatmeal crisps, chutney, celery and grapes accompanied our cheese. Another chance for the Bordeaux red to transform its flavours, becoming sweeter and mellow.
Just to be sure, I asked for a Port wine for the cheese and dessert.
Ferreria 1994 Vintage Port Wine.
Great Port vintages like this only happen a few times in a lifetime. This was a deep coloured wine, almost black, with sweet but not cloying raisin flavour.
Since 1948, there have only been four classic-quality vintages of Port - 1985, 1977, 1970 and 1963. All of them, as is the case with 1994, were "general declarations," vintages in which the leading Port houses decide to bottle their top wines after aging them approximately two years in the cellar. Never have so many houses made so many excellent vintage Ports. Mother Nature was generous in 1994: the weather was near perfect throughout the growing season and ideal during the harvest as well.
A. A. Ferreira S.A. was founded in 1751 by a family of wine-growing landowners in the Douro region. It flourished especially under the leadership of Dona Antónia A. Ferreira (1811-1896), a legendary figure in the history of Port.
Galette of white chocolate and fig with coffee essence.
Petits fours and chocolate.
We had no room for coffee but never say never to chocolate again.
‘THE LIBRARY’
This was an adjacent bar lounge area where one could relax and still take advantage of the excellent cellars.
Calvados Pays d’Auge, Normandie, France.
Roger Groult is a 4th generation producer of this apple brandy garnering gold medals and prizes using blends from reserves laid down by his father and grandfather. I tried the top two editions.
Doyen d’Age (40years)
Russet red reflections with vanilla notes. Rounded attack and cooked apple flavours.
Ancestral (50 years)
Copper reflections with spiced wine notes. Soft attack with intense aromatic persistence. Probably worth being two and a half times the price of the already expensive Doyen d’Age.
The Macallan 18 year old (1985) single highland malt whisky and Ruinart NV champagne.
What else is there to say about this ‘Rolls Royce’ and ‘Petrus’ of the whisky world?
Sweet sherry oak and dried fruit nose. Dried fruit palate with hint of smoke. Lingering wood spice with light smoke finish. Not as good as my favourite 1966 but the memory ‘kinda lingers’.
Champagne notes already described in ‘Lazing Luxuriously in Chester’.
CONCLUSION
The ‘Arkle’ and ‘The Library’ were oases of gourmand experiences for wine, food and distilled pleasures, proving that there is “la dolce vita”, away from the big cities in England. The service was discrete and attentive which complemented the culinary excellence, well deserving their high rating in the guidebooks.
Finally, for those in search of the ‘Compleat WFED Experience’, there is a selection of fine cigars available in The Library.....maybe next time......
Photos and Text Copyright Melvyn Teillol-Foo, 2004.
MTF
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