Grazing with Patek Philippe at 'La Colombiere' in Geneva

In between visits to both Patek Philippe factories in Geneva, we drove to a peaceful location for lunch. La Colombiere has a great reputation and we were besides ourselves with anticipation. The PuristS and Hosts, including Mrs Jasmina Steele, International Public Relations Director and Mrs Pamela Cloutier, Area Director Americas. How strange that the water came from across the lake in France (Evian); are there no water sources on the Swiss side? A good motto...... Menu: here’s the game – what would you have chosen? WINES Both our wines were locally produced not far from the restaurant location. Geneva is Switzerland’s third largest wine-producing canton, after Valais and Vaud. Vineyards wind through residential areas only 10 minutes from the city. On the other hand, Geneva has the biggest wine-growing community in Switzerland, which implies that the yields are low. Recent years have brought a change in quality and movement away from the ubiquitous Chasselas and Gamay grapes to as many as 25 varieties including Chardonnay, Gewürztraminer, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Gris, Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Pinot Noir. The two hot newcomers are Gamaret and Garanoir. Les Curiades - Sauvignon Blanc 2001 An effusive fruity character which went down nicely with the starters ……… and the wine was the same too One for the ladies; our efficient waiter. I am an equal opportunity reporter. Les Curiades - Gamaret 2002 An interesting cross between Gamay Noir and Reichensteiner grapes by the Swiss Institute of Agronomic Research in 1970 produced this variety, which is like Pinot Noir in glucose and acidity. In 1991, it was recognised and listed as a Swiss wine class. This example was soft and of medium fullness which went well even with the fish. The wines from 2002 are of good quality thanks to favourable climatic conditions and low yields. In May 2003, our wine may have been amongst those ‘baptized’ at an official ceremony, in the presence of this year’s godparents, ‘master of complications’ Franck Muller and astrologer Dr Elizabeth Teissier. Actually, it must have been because the whole vintage is ‘baptized’ at the ceremony in Château du Crest, Jussy. STARTERS Grilled squid and aubergine slices, which was my choice and very glad I was too. The squid was just cooked before it became rubbery. I could have had seconds and thirds! Squid is a difficult ingredient; one can either undercook it, so it remains tender or supercook it so it becomes tender again. There is no middle ground. Les legumes de Pot-au-Feu en Vinaigrette aux Herbes et Chèvre Frais was light, creamy and scrummy with the dry white wine. I scrounged a few scraps from my neighbour, purely for investigative reporting, of course! MAINS Filet of sandre. Please note the crispy salt encrusted skin and flesh just cooked until flakes appeared…most delicious and fresh. Or was it fresh and delicious? Of course, I wondered if this was perch or the Russian fish (Lucioperca sandre), which yields valuable oil, called sandre oil, used in the preparation of caviar. I suspect the former as we were miles from Russia and pike perch live in Lac Leman. As I am not a cunning linguist, I leave it to more erudite forum-ners to translate. Roast lamb mignons and spiced apricot jam with cumin flavoured rice. I scrounged a few scraps from my neighbour again as your intrepid reporter, so I could report that this was …..er……yummy! Alright, if you must have the words: the melting tender meat infused with the spicy aromas of Eastern promise, vibrant colours and sweetness of autumnal apricots married well with the local red wine. Guess who got both side dishes . Hey, marching around factories with out breakfast is hungry work! Puits d’Amour aux Framboises et Fruit de la Passion. A colourful and fragrant sweet to finish. The soft creamy topping just hid the coy mélange of fruit compote, cocooned in a warm pastry case. I could not manage all of this but it looked mighty pretty too. Conclusion: This is a most competent restaurant which I must explore the next time I return to Geneva, perhaps at dinner. With a little more time....a little more wine....a little more intimacy.....one could do no worse. Photo and text copyright Melvyn Teillol-Foo, 2003 ThePuristS.com Wine and Food Discussion Forum  |  ThePuristS.com Home Page We welcome comments, suggestions, and corrections. Copyright 2002-2003 - MTF and ThePuristS.com - all rights reserved