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I do not usually frequent Shibuya when I'm in Tokyo, as I am usually found in Shinjuku or in Central Tokyo. I was with a group of Francophiles and fell in with their plans to dine at Coucagno on the 40th floor of The Cerulean Tower Hotel, which is part of the Tokyu Company conglomerate of railways, hotels and department stores. The tales of the Tokyu corporate battles between two Japanese brothers are legendary and perhaps more suited to another forum. Let's talk 'grazing'...
The Japanese love European food and their 2nd favourite cuisine, after Italian, is French. Even the Japanese word for bread is 'pain'.
The Entrance with mood lighting i.e. gropingly dark.
I did not want to spoil the ambience for other clients by using flash photography. Most of the diners were couples with one commonality - the ladies were young. The gentlemen were from a continuous age spectrum. The young ones were either trying to impress their lady dates or propose marriage. The old guys were 'on the pull' like old guys everywhere 
Ladies, beware the middle aged men who order Ch. Margaux 1982...
Private Room Decor.
As I was with a gaggle of loud foreigners (Dutch and American), we were sequestered away from the action in the Private Room. Usually, you have to pay extra for a room 
DRINKS
Cristal Roederer Champagne 1996
We started off well with this jewel, first created in 1876 for Tsar Alexander II.
Pinot Noir 55% & Chardonnay 45%. Sparkling pale gold, with a fine mousse and light gossamer bubbles. Intense flowery aroma with hint of almonds or smoke. Acid attack with velvety smokey long finish.
Cloudy Bay Chardonnay 2001
A consistent product from the misty, cool Southern hemisphere climes.
Domaine Tempier Bandol 1999
My first 'taste of Provence'. Bandol is one of the most picturesque wine regions in France, located along the coast from Marseilles. The wines are supposedly fashionable in France, found on the wine lists of most Michelin restaurants. Bandol's native grape is the Mourvedre and although white wines, made from Clairette, Ugni Blanc and Sauvignon are made it is the red wines that have made this region famous. Under strictly controlled laws the red wines of Bandol must be made from a minimum of 50% Mourvedre-the only appellation in France with this distinction-and aged in wooden foudres for 18 months prior to bottling. This ageing is necessary to soften the fierce tannins that are present in the young wines.
Therein lay the problem for me. The rich, fragrant and long-lived wine was too young and fiercely tannic for my delicate degustation menu. Some of the other diners had steak and had no issue with this wine.
I had the pleasure of meeting my friend (see previous 'Grazing Canteen in Paris') the next evening and he did not rate the Bandols anyway; he's 'French' like that!
DEGUSTATION MENU
Amuse bouche.
Crostini and Salmon Terrine with Chilli Dressing and Creamy Lobster Froth. Imagine the amusement we had washing this down with the Cristal champagne...mmmm.
Tomato stuffed with fruits in exotic savours.
My French translation is rather suspect so please savour the photo instead.
Organic Vegetable Terrine with Citron-vert and Pimiento Fondant.
Cooked but slightly crunchy vegetables in cool mousse and piquant sauce was surprisingly flavoursome. I am usually cynical about the use of the word ‘organic’, which in my book means using unrefined fertilisers
Our long-suffering but ever-smiling waiter.
Finishing off the preparation of the 2 full portions and a degustation portion of our next course.
Home-style Bouillabaisse.
This is the full portion, which photographs better. Even though it’s late autumn on a wet Tokyo evening, one could almost savour the Mediterranean sunshine in the dish.
Aioli sauce and Grated Cheese; accompaniment for bouillabaisse.
'Aioli' is the name of the Provencal garlic (ail) sauce made with egg yolk, garlic, olive oil, wine vinegar, salt and, if you are a heretic, mustard too.
Sautéed Filet of Beef and Foie Gras Wrapped in Cabbage with Madeira Sauce.
Barely warmed beef and foie gras was very good indeed and filled the 'Ache for Steak' - I think I've been associating with Americans a tad too much .
Avant Dessert.
The menu provided no clue what this was going to be - 'advance dessert'. It turned out to be a light citrus sorbet to cleanse the palate before the 'Grand Dessert'.
Warning! Alert! Do finish your 'Bandol' before eating this to avoid a major clash on the taste buds.
Grand Dessert.
Vanilla Ice Cream on Sponge Cake with Raspberry Jus and Chocolate Brandy Snap Cigar.
This light sweet rounded off the meal competently.
Double Espresso and Petit Four.
CONCLUSION
'Coucagno' is a competent French dining room in Shibuya, Tokyo affording a discrete ambiance and panoramic view from its 40th storey location. Next time, I must remember to bring a lady friend...
Photos and Text Copyright Melvyn Teillol-Foo, 2003.
MTF
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