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Air travel has come a long way since 1903 when the Wright brothers first took off from Kittyhawk. Also gone are the days of Empire when giant seaplanes hopped across oceans from London to the Far East, taking a week to arrive in style.
The seasoned traveller accepts the vagaries of weather, ‘technical failures’ and ‘operational difficulties’ but never bad service from cabin staff. British Airways is one of about four airlines whose International Route cabin staff has never let me down. The nominees by region are:
Europe: British Airways.
Americas: American Airlines.
Asia: Singapore Airlines and Cathay Pacific.
Sure, every airline will have some customers who recall exceptional service on one or more international flights but for consistency, courtesy and customer-first attitude, my nominations have not let me down in nearly 3 decades of travel. Maybe the other competitors were just really bad; I once boarded “First Class” (I use the term loosely) in Tokyo with ‘ReallyBadUSCarrier1’ and a large ‘momma’ of a cabin attendant watched me take my coat off and pointed to the wardrobe upfront saying, “The hangers are inside; just hang your coat in there!” after making sotto voce disparaging comments about customers to a colleague. I cannot even repeat what happened with ‘ReallyBadUSCarrier2’ also in Tokyo. What is it with these US cabin staff and Tokyo? Is it because I am Asian and in certain lighting conditions, look Japanese? What are they doing to the customers in Coach/Economy class? Are they strapped down and tortured?
I had an opportunity to compare the service and food on both First Class and Club Class (Business) with British Airways on London-Tokyo return route. In classic fashion, I travelled Port Out and Starboard Home (POSH) albeit in different cabin classes.
The first big difference was the check-in procedure. I am a BA Gold club member and fortunately receive great treatment anyway but bona fide First Class (& until recently Concorde) passengers get a separate plush check-in lounge and sit down for the process.
The next difference is at the aircraft door. Everyone gets a friendly smile and welcome aboard BA flights but the Purser walks First Class passengers to their seat personally.
Another difference is customer-staff ratio. There are only 14 First Class seats on a BA Boeing 747-400 aircraft and usually about 5 seats are filled. I’ve been on flights where the staff outnumbered the passengers in First.
A further difference is the à la Carte dining on First where you create your own menu choice and enjoy it whenever you wish during the flight. You want a nap before dinner and your breakfast for dessert? – No problem.
BA is all excited about the new NOBU Product on the London-Tokyo route. Mark Edwards, Head Chef of NOBU Park Lane, London has created a fusion of modern and Japanese cuisines whilst respecting the qualities for which NOBU is internationally recognised. Both First and Club Class have NOBU choices but there are subtle differences.
First Class: Piper-Heidsieck Rare Champagne and a Timely read.
This chardonnay-dominated Champagne is superb, with tiny bubbles, a persistent brioche-citrus flavour and long buttery finish.
Club Class: Champagne and High Life read.
Some reasonable NV Champagne brand perfectly good with nuts 
It is not easy to get a wine to taste delicious at 30,000 feet. The passengers get dehydrated and the membranes in their noses dry out, reducing ability to smell and taste wine. Alcohol itself has a dehydrating effect and we probably lose up to 30 percent of our ability to taste. The wine’s aromas are flattened, and any element out of balance such as tannin or acidity is emphasized. The wine is unchanged by altitude, we do.
Hearsay: British Airways once invited several wine writers to blind taste a set of wines at Heathrow airport, more wines while flying aboard Concorde to Barbados and a final set of wines in the hotel in Barbados. They unanimously judged the best wines were the ones in the Barbados, followed by those at Heathrow and lastly those tasted while flying. It turns out; of course, the same wines were served in all three tastings.
FIRST CLASS CELLAR CHOICES
Whites
· Saint-Aubin Premier Cru Les Cortons, 2001, Roux Père et Fils
· Pouilly-Fume Les Griottes, 2002, Jean-Pierre Bailly
· Pinot Grigio, Isonzo del Friuli, 2002, Borgo dei Vassalli
Reds
· Château Grand Pontet, 1996, Saint-Émilion Grand Cru Classé
· Frei Brothers Russian River Valley Pinot Noir, 2001
· Cornas Nobles Rives, 1999, Cave de Tain l’Hermitage
PRE-DINNER
First Class: NOBU style appetisers – salmon & tomato, prawn & sesame mousse, spinach wrapped crabmeat.
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Club Class: Salted cashew nuts in a sealed plastic bag.
SAKE
First Class: ‘Dai-gin-jou’ or Top grade sake.
Club Class: High-grade sake.
STARTERS
First Class: Starter from choice of five possible dishes.
Foie gras karashi su miso – scoops of foie gras pate in a vinegary wasabi-miso sauce. This was very rich and I thought the large scoop was too much for a starter. Top grade ingredients and presentation.
Club Class: Starter from choice of three possible dishes.
Cold chicken and asparagus roulade in Matsuhisa sauce. The roulade was tender and had a smooth texture without being rubbery.
MAIN COURSES
First Class: Main course from choice of 4 possible dishes.
Balsamic teriyaki beef with steamed Japanese rice and Clear consomme of Fish and Shrimp.
Tender chunk of high grade succulent meat cooked perfectly pink in the middle, in delicious classic sauce and with quality sticky rice. Fragrant clear consomme looke like clear water but packed with flavour.
Club Class: Main course from choice of 4 possible dishes.
Chicken and Shrimp with Enoki mushrooms and steamed rice.
Slightly overcooked dish, as this was re-heated in batches. The flavours and ingredients were all there but evidently the shrimp were rubbery, the vegetables were limp and the rice being kept moist under the cabbage was not best grade sticky rice.
The quality of sticky rice is all-important to Japanese cuisine.
DESSERTS
First Class: Dessert from choice of 4 possible dishes
Chocolate bento box with green tea ice cream
Chivite Colecciòn 125 Vendimia Tardia, 2000. This natural sweet wine from’Moscatel de Grano Menudo’ grapes from the Navarra region of northern Spain had powerful aromas of fruit, herbs and orange blossoms. The voluptuous concentrated flavour was balanced by some acidity that cut through the chocolate dessert well.
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Club Class: Dessert choice of 3 possible dishes
CHEESEBOARDS
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First Class: Cheese Board & Port
Fountain’s Gold, Stilton, Bougon Chèvre, St.Nectaire and unpasteurised Kirkham’s Lancashire cheeses.
Warre’s 1986 Reserve Tawny Port had developed complex, sweet, nutty flavours.
Club Class: Cheese Board & Port
Brie, Stilton and Mature Cheddar cheeses.
Taylor’s Port, I think; although at this point (lots of sake), I did not really care 
CONCLUSION
I think the vast strides that Club Class has made with its product recently (viz. multi-adjustable seats, converting 6 foot flat beds, large LCD screens, laptop computer power point, choice of food and wines) has narrowed the gap between Business and First class travel on British Airways.
Sure, given the choice, I would choose First Class every time for the slightly wider beds, personal video and higher staff-passenger ratio. On a ‘snore-for-dollar’ scale, Club Class gives better value for money but First Class is the way to go on the expense accounts!
Photos and text copyright Melvyn Teillol-Foo, 2003.
MTF
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